Escaping the dreary grey of northern European winters for a tropical paradise off the coast of Morocco for a week will do the mind and body better than a prescription. The island harkens to memories of the big island of Hawaii with its distinct contrast of the arid south against the lush greens of the tropical north. Both islands manifested via mountains of volcanic eruptions that have peaks above the clouds and each home to a collection of white domed observatories with ideal conditions for astrophotography enthusiasts. The trek up Mount Tiede is comfortable compared to the much tighter and windy roads leading to Masca. I chose the Roques de Garcia as the terrestrial platform to present the tail of our milky way galaxy visible during the winter months. The location wasn’t quite high enough to escape the boastful clouds which ceaselessly glided through every exposure, but I only had one night set aside during the new moon phase of my trip to shoot. Braving a hike to the summit rewards you with an unparalleled view into the cosmos; a bridge between the earth and stars. I highly recommend sturdy shoes if you plan on exploring the multitude of rocky outcrops formed by ages of volcanic sediments layering atop one another.
If you have an intrepid spirit, comfortable with steeply winding roads, then take a morning drive up to Masca to beat the afternoon crowds when parking becomes scarce. It’s remotely nestled in the rugged yet lush green Teno mountains and offers spectacular views of plunging ravines and abstractly carved terraces stumbling from the whitewashed pueblos clinging to the mountain sides. The road to Masca is a ribbon of asphalt snaking up and down through hairpin turns while clinging to cliffsides. It’s for the intrepid driver, not the faint of heart. If you go past the main village there is a Café with a large outdoor patio nestled directly on the mountain side overlooking Masca. It has a reasonable amount of parking if you can’t find anything directly in the village and there’s a walking path past the café for more incredible panoramic views of the valley below.
I got a late start on the drive to Masca so I decided to double down by enjoying a hearty breakfast at Bloom Bar & Brunch first. The yogurt cup and pancakes were tasty, but I could have gone without Matcha Tea. A classic cappuccino or freshly squeezed orange juice never disappointed me. The restaurant was in a bright, colorful little town that invited me to have a brisk walk to explore a bit before getting back on the road. Once I got to the rocky coast and saw the incredible water clarity, I was disappointed to not have my mask and snorkel along. Climbing down one of several easy to reach ladders for a look at the neighborhood sea life would have been the cherry on top of breakfast.
While driving north from Los Cristianos along the TF-1 highway on the east coast, geography enthusiasts may find the Arco de Tajao worth a stop. It’s not a far hike from the dirt parking lots nearby but the trek down is quite steep. Just follow the beaten footpath of your choice down to get the best views. There were howling winds when walking across the parking lot but once I descended into the shallow canyon, I was fully protected so don’t let a few strong gusts discourage you.
Santa Cruz de Tenerife is the capital city which remains connected to its maritime roots as evidenced by the massive port that underpins the local economy. The streets are lined with palm trees and lively plazas where locals and tourists alike gather to soak up the sun and breeze wafting throughout. Its easy to overorder from menus here because the prices are cheap and the fare is delicious. Eat like a local at the rustic, simple Bodegon Él Puntero. Known for its delicious seafood and potatoes dunked in the local specialty sauce, mojo verde, which beckoned me to return. You can sit at a table or just stand at the bar and enjoy the delicious fare while chatting with residents of the city. If you prefer a liquid desert after dinner there are plenty of bars to choose from, but my favorite haunt was easily La Guiri Bar. It had the most unique ambiance compared to the other more traditional bars I came across. The interior had an art deco flair sprinkled with gaudy decorations that spark curiosity and it’s owned by a vivacious expat, Jenny! I met many people from varied walks of life here and the barkeep was overflowing with great suggestions to enrich my adventure and an absolute pleasure to converse with.
My favorite hikes and views on the island were on the trek from Santa Cruz to Playa de Benijo. It’s a windy road that entranced me with lush green mountain sides dotted with miradors (view points) that are still vivid in memory. A drive that should take less than one hour wound up taking me almost two thanks to the remarkable scenery I kept indulging in along the way. If you look at a map of Playa de Benijo you will see two separate beaches near one another. The closer one is still open, but the beach further north had a rock fall which destroyed the stairway down so its blocked off as of November 2024. If you wore sturdy shoes like me or just have excellent balance, you can still navigate the jagged rocks around the coast from the first beach to the cordoned off one. Rounding the corner to my destination I was stunned by the awe-inspiring ruggedness of the untouched black sand with shards of rock piercing up through the surface of the sea, shrugging off waves that smashed their façades. I was in complete solitude and couldn’t remember the last time I was so far removed from any visible or audible signs of other humans. The only footsteps in the sand were my own. But the thin, wispy puddles stretching forth from the death of each wave made sure to erase the only evidence of my presence. Like a jealous bride, the sea reclaimed her property.
